I have replaced the handlebar grips for a pair of GTs from Lowbrow Customs, a new take on a classic design:
So, a good cup drill bit (and a grommet later probably) and we're done.
The huge hole on the bottom of the shell is one of three (!) that come as standard, presumably for all manners of wiring and avionics. I think it's a bit excessive really, they should just sell the shells (by the seashore?) un-drilled, so people can adapt them to their bikes as needed.
What I'm talking about here is totally basic adjustment in operation, nothing to do with altering stacked height, materials, extra parts, etc. All of this is perfectly covered in the Rider's Handbook, so always refer to that and treat it as Sacred Word.
First, slacken the cable, at the clutch lever by screwing the adjuster all the way in.
Slacken the locknut in the clutch centre and screw the actual adjuster in until you feel it contact with the pushrod. You may wish to back it off by no more than ¼ turn to allow some clearance, but really as long as the adjuster is only just touching the pushrod, it's fine.
Hold the adjuster in place while you tighten the locknut: basically use the screwdriver and the spanner together. Adjust the cable from the clutch lever and you're done.
And I re-did the lockwire on the oil tank drain bolt because I did't like the way it came out last time.
The way it is in the photo above, the bolt could still have come loose. Unlikely, though not impossible.
In the photo below the bolt cannot possibly loosen. Peace of mind.
Look, this would still not be acceptable for aviation standards, but then again that's not what I'm doing here, so I'm going to call it good enough.
Surely that must be it now, right? Nope, still have the rear brake vent kit to install...