Modern highways (motorways, autostrade, autobahn, autoroutes, whatever you want to call them) have been around for so long that people take them for granted and think of them as the only option for road travel. And so it's easy to miss just what a transformation they represent and how these networks have allowed us not just to cover longer distances more quickly, but to alter our perception of distances and make 500km seem like nothing.
I purposely avoided them entirely, when I took the 1200S up north past the Apennines one beautiful sunny autumn day.
The reason for sticking to older roads was to cruise along unhurried, through the scenery instead of removed from it. And because almost everybody else was speeding along the autostrada off in the distance, it meant there was hardly anyone where I was. The many towns and largeish cities I had to cross, slowed things down tremendously and were often an annoyance, but the rest of the way was a beautiful, cerebral experience of autumn colors and the steady hum of the Harley-Davidson's V twin.
The bike was flawless, of course. I had absolute confidence that nothing would give me trouble, and so it was. Truly, they really made something extraordinary when they created the Evolution series of the Sportster.
The addition of the "Sundowner" seat and the windshield turn the Sportster into a capable all-day tourer. Yes, as I've conceded before, the 1200S is perhaps a little rough around the edges, but it can still cruise along with no discomfort to the rider; doing 100/110 kph at around 3.000 rpm with the windshield makes it feel like you're in a dream, as your entire upper body is fully sheltered from the air, while your lower extremities are close enough to the engine to stay warm.
On smooth surfaces the ride is taut and steady, but the occasional potholes really take the rear shocks to their limits and make me curse whatever municipality I happen to be in for letting their roads get so bad.
And so along the old Flaminia, to the fortified towns of Orte and Orvieto, then deep into the Tuscan hinterland with small pretty towns, sleepy in their late morning sunshine. On towards Chiusi, Torrita and Montevarchi where I stopped for a quick lunch and what must have been the best coffee I've had in years. At that point I can aim the "Narrowglide" front end of the bike towards the foot of the mountain, cross lake Bilancino and begin the ascent on the famous SS 65 "della Futa". I hadn't been up here in many years, I don't even remember what bike I was on that time, maybe my previous Sportster or the Fastback. It's always a very rewarding road and definitely enjoyable without traffic and the usual hordes of contemporary motorcycles you'd find during the summer. Someone had gone to the hassle of having a banner printed and hung outside their house, it read "Basta moto!", so it must be quite annoying.
I only stopped for two quick photos, then continued on my way down towards Bologna and Modena, as the light faded and my German headlight cut through the darkness to the end of my ride.
Who knows what else there is to see up there...
