An Italian in England.

My good buddy Keith sent me these photos from his latest sortie on his surface-to-air missile Aprilia RSV 1000R:

Man that thing looks -fast just sitting there... Some stats: 140 ponies, all the technological bling of Ohlin Forks, rear shock, and steering damper; Brembo brakes, lightweight Marchesini magnesium alloy wheels, braided hoses and a dodgy electrical system ;-) And cool Italian design! You're equal part brave and nuts to ride it, but glad you're out riding! Looks like perfect weather actually. Let me know when you sort out that electrical glitch, and have fun in the meantime : )

A shapely rear end.

Well, that's what it is!
The boys have done an excellent job with Marco's rear mudguard. Chopping it wasn't enough, they then molded (or moulded, depending on which side of the pond you're from) a rib all along the contour of the mudguard, to replicate the original detail, which got lost when they chopped it. Some sanding, priming and painting later, this looks like a factory piece and the difference it makes on the bike is really noticeable.
More on this soon:

Above: primed. The reshaped end is the one on the right of the photo. It looks like it came out of the factory like that, doesn't it? Below, painted and ready to go back on das Motorrad:

It won't start.

Of course it won't, but why?
I was honestly under no illusion that - having done all that I have done - the bike would just start, nevermind first kick, although it is possible and much more common than you might think.
Let's examine the situation: I had recently adjusted the valves, we have good compression, sparks and fuel at least into the float bowls. Timing has not been altered since the bike last ran, and ran it did, so...
Kicking it over, the engine turns freely (albeit a little stiff, but that's to be expected with new pistons, rings, etc.). However, when checking the sparking plugs, they are bone dry without even the faintest trace of petrol on them. So, gas ain't getting through.

Off with the jets assemblies first; result: jets were not perfectly clean (though I have seen much worse) so I cleaned them. The same goes for the idling circuit, so of course I removed the air screws then set them back at 1.5 turns from fully seated.

Again, it won't start, though there is an audible combustion happening in the number 1 cylinder, just once.
So, why won't it start then??!

Well, the only thing I had not double checked was the valves, which I thought were adjusted properly.
And therein lies the mistake: this is a reminder to never assume anything, never take anything for granted with these machines. The moment you are sure of something without having just double and triple checked it, go check it. I guarantee you'll find a problem. So, I re-adjusted the valves following the Workshop Manual to the letter, then put everything back together as it should be.
Oh by the way, it starts now. First kick.

Unorthodox mechanical surgery.

Remember that damaged engine mounting bolt that I had to replace, but that would have required dismantling the entire primary chaincase and all the wonders it contains? Well, I thought I'm buggered if I have to do that, and so, as I thought I would, I got creative.
Inspired by a surgical technique known as maxillary antrostomy (don't google it, it's super gross), I drilled an opening in the inner chaincase directly in line with the offending bolt, and was thus able to extract it, then replace it with a new one.

I've also replaced the nut for the long support stud at the centre of the primary case, and in both cases I'm considering securing them with some lockwire. Either way, I'll be keeping an eye on these!
During the procedure, the engine was supported on a jack. Now, if only alluminium could heal itself like bone and tissue do...
Many thanks to Witold, who consulted on the procedure.

Oil.

I've stocked up on motor oil since I use the same one on all my OHV air-cooled motorcycles:

Normally, almost three of these go into the Commando's oil tank, however this time I'm pouring about half a pint altogether down the pushrod tunnels before I bolt the exhaust valve covers on:

This is to help the cam and followers during the first start. After the engine has ran (hopefully!) I will check the level and top up as needed.