1200S: service time.

I've said it before and I'll say it again: The mid-90s Sportster is the best kept secret in motorcycling.
It is a solid, smooth and dependable machine that can easily run for 20-odd years of constant use with only the most basic maintenance; this is proof that it is a remarkable motorcycle.

What I'm doing here is just a regular service, nothing special.
With the engine warm and adrenal glands still pumping, I quickly drain both the engine and transmission oils:

There is no engine plug to be wrenched out, no washers or gaskets to replace. All you do is pull out the dedicated drain pipe and you're done. Easy.

I also remove the oil filter with this nifty tool and clean the mounting flange:

Why don't all oil filters have the same "fluting"? It would make life a lot easier: one tool, fits all filters.

This is the time to inspect the oil pressure sensor intake point and make sure it's thoroughly clean.
Do not overlook this component on any machine that's clever enough to have one, as it could mean the difference between spotting a problem early enough to save the engine, or total and utter mechanical mayhem.

A new filter goes on (primed as much as possible and with a little oil smeared on the rubber gasket as always) and fresh engine oil is added to the tank. Don't forget to secure the drain pipe before you do this!
Top up as needed after the first short ride and you're done. By far the easiest oil change procedure I've ever known.

Now, that said, there is something else you need to do here, which is very important: after you've replaced the oil filter and filled the oil tank with fresh oil, and before you run the engine, you must allow a small amount of new oil to drain out of the drain pipe once again. This is to avoid any air bubbles forming within the lubrication circuit, which could then potentially reach the oil pump and cause cavitation. Cavitation is bad for anything spinning in a liquid, it doesn't matter if it's a food processor mixing pancake batter, or a nuclear-powered submarine hunting those damn commies in the dark depths of the abyss; or an oil pump in an engine.

Some people may get all upset about the fact that you can't flush all of the oil from the crankcases (because there is no drain plug in the crankcase itself) and that there will always be some old oil that remains in the engine. First of all, it's clearly not a problem, but if that really bothers you, there is a thing called "the scavenger" that allows you to waste some perfectly good oil and possibly damage some hoses, just to satisfy your OCD. Whatever.

I've been using the extended version of the oil filter (the standard item otherwise comes flush with the crankcase and is much neater, visually) because it carries and cools a little extra oil, which can't be a bad thing. It also makes access for removal much easier.

Both the standard and extended filters are also available in flashy chrome. Why Harley, why?!

As for the transmission fluid, it is a mineral based oil that is shared between the gearbox and primary chain. Does that mean that dust particles from the clutch end up in the gearbox? I don't know, but the whole system clearly works a treat, as primary, clutch and gearbox have always been very dependable on my previous Sportster and on this one (yes, there is a problem with this particular gearbox, we'll get to that).

Before you drain the transmission oil it's probably best to wait 10 to 15 minutes to let it all collect at the bottom of the case.
There is a drain plug at the bottom of the transmission case that you can undo with a conventional ⅝ wrench, or with an allen key.

With the drain plug cleaned and back in, I put the bike on my trusty jack to keep it level. Incidentally, that drain plug has a magnet in it, so I really wouldn't worry about any shavings reaching the gearbox under normal operation. I found just a negligible amount in this case, all seems in order.

As I watched the transmission oil collect in the catch pan, I noticed what at first I thought was some emulsion, not unheard of for this type of thing. However, towards the end it became obvious that this was just plain water. How did it get in there? Probably through the primary chain inspection cover, which I found wasn't seating properly. Yet another reminder to always go over every inch of a second-hand motorcycle: you're gonna find something to fix.

At this point you can then remove the clutch cover and slowly refill with fresh oil through the primary chain inspection cover; you'll know you've reached the level when you can see it at the bottom of the clutch basket. If you decide to do this, be aware that there is a large rubber seal for the clutch cover and you should have a replacement ready in case yours is starting to look a bit tired (though chances are it will still be perfectly fine). Also, be careful when undoing or refitting the torx head bolts: surprisingly, these don't have the same bulletproof quality to them that almost anything else on this bike does.
To be fair, you could simply drain the oil, and pour one quart in through the small inspection cover like I did without bothering to check the level. I'm sure it's spot on, the engineers who made this thing knew what they were doing.

While you're at it, check the tension on the primary chain; in my case the primary chain had just the right amount of slack so I left it alone.

Just look at that luxurious hardwood floor, what a garage I have! (come on, it's linoleum.)

And speaking of engineers and primary chains, etc. you may have noticed more than a passing resemblance between the triplex primary chains of a Norton Commando and an evolution Sportster, as well as their diaphragm spring clutches. I once read somewhere that they were designed by the same engineers, first for Norton, and later for Harley-Davidson. Cool huh?
This may sound blasphemous to some (my dad included, probably!) but I've often thought that the evolution Sportster is what the Norton Commando would have been, if it had continued to be in production. Ah, to think of what could have been...
Anyway, back to the service.

I highly recommend this video on the matter, there is more than just practical how-to in there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64icxikYvO8

Next up, the front brake: I mentioned that when I took a test ride the first time I went to check out the bike, I noticed a problem with the front brake and I had asked the dealer if they could sort it out before I collected the bike.

Because the lever had a huge amount of "travel" before the pads actually engaged, it just felt like the system needed to be bled and refilled, nothing crazy.

The guy said they would take care of it, but when I went to collect the bike they hadn't done anything, and started giving me excuses like "oh, it'll fix itself once you start using it". Bullshit.

So, keeping in mind that if you want something done right ya gotta do it yourself... I went ahead and did this myself. Unfortunately I don't have any photos as I was pressed for time when I did it, so you'll have to take my word for it.

The inside of the reservoir was just filthy, it looked like a swamp, with algae and other weird vegetation growing in it. There were reptiles and assorted amphibians, buzzing dragonflies and spiders, all living in this thriving microcosmos, that should actually have been a front brake reservoir. The level was low and the brake fluid itself just looked unhealthy.
So, using a Mytivac handpump, I took my time and fully drained the lines, spent ages cleaning out all the gunk, then refilled with fresh DOT 5 fluid.

Whereas most disc brake systems you'll come across "run" on DOT 4 fluid, Harley-Davidson uses the silicone-based DOT 5. It's harder to come by, it's more expensive, but it does not absorb moisture, can run hotter than DOT 4 and does not damage paint if accidentally spilled.

I like the Mytivac as I find it easier to control than an air-compressor assisted type; it works perfectly and generates an impressive vacuum.

With the reservoir thoroughly cleaned, fresh fluid and the lines properly bled, I knew that part was done, yet the problem persisted. If this sounds familiar and you're having the same problem, the culprit is likely to be that the calipers have accumulated dirt on the pistons, which can no longer retract fully, or move in and out as they should.

A quick fix is to spray brake cleaner from a high-pressure can, you'll probably end up using all of it but it is worth it. Have a look at this video to get an idea of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaslIKLdEE8

If you have time, it's better to take the calipers completely apart and give everything a good clean, inspect all components and replace any that might be damaged.

In my case the brake cleaner definitely helped with the pistons, but the real problem is with the two retaining pins for the brake pads (not to mention the fact that when I took them off I discovered that the pads had not been fitted properly and that's also why they were binding):

Under normal circumstances all these pins do is hold the pads in place and don't interfere with their movement, however as you can see below, mine were showing some wear so I cleaned them with some very fine sandpaper until I got them nice and smooth. The bottom one is as I found them, the top one is after I cleaned them:

You need a ¼in. 12 point (not triple square: they all have twelve points but the drive profiles are different) socket for this, just in case you're wondering what size the pad pins are.

With everything clean and back in place, the front brake now works properly and much better than before, I'm happy with the result.

I also checked something else just to put my mind at ease, given the shadiness demonstrated by the dealership; the front brake master cylinder is marked 11/16, this is specific to the 1200S that has twin disc brakes. Single disc models carry a more relaxed 9/16. That of course all refers to the size of the bore and piston:

There is still one problem on this motorcycle, and that's the gearbox. Specifically, something that many other Sportster owners have come across (and fixed!): the symptom is an unpleasant, sometimes violent juddering or jerking, accompanied by a gut-wrenching clunking and grinding noise just as you take off in first gear.

As soon as you shift into second (and all other gears) it's fine, smooth, predictable. Downshifting is equally fine and, incidentally, there is nothing wrong with the clutch: no slipping or dragging.

So, this is strictly a gearbox problem. 

Again, I had noticed this immediately during the test ride, told the dealer and asked them to fix it before I collected the bike. I was told that they had recently replaced fourth gear and that what I was feeling was simply the new gears "bedding in". 

What. The. Fuck.

I don't know what's more insulting, the obvious lies and lack of customer care, or the assumption that I wouldn't know what I'm talking about.

Never mistake a dealer for a friend, regardless of what they're selling; all they care about is getting your money.

Anyway, I haven't gone into it yet as I haven't had time, but what I suspect has happened here is that the dogs between 1st and 3rd on the countershaft have become worn and are no longer able to keep engagement when subjected to the insane amount of horsepower coming from the engine. Pardon me, motor.

There is no fix for this other than replacing the gears, so, I'll eventually get around to doing this.

Given the general lack of care shown by the dealership, I'm looking at everything I can reasonably get into, just in case I spot anything else that needs attention. Something that should never be overlooked is the spark plugs, especially on twin-spark motors like this one, where "the other" plug is, by necessity, a little harder to reach (even though on these "Thunderstorm" heads the engineering solution is as simple as it is brilliant). My friend the German had warned me about this, and said that they're often neglected precisely because they're hard to reach. All the more reasons to go check.
Off comes the tank, there's just no other way around it, but this is easy guys, this is not such a pain...

You need a proper deep-well spark plug socket to get at the plug's hex, obviously, and it would be preferable if it were one of those (like Honda's) that have a rubber insert to grab the spark plug and help you lift it out. However, this can be done just as easily with a piece of rubber pipe, again, not exactly hardship.
These are the plugs as I found them:

I'd say it's a good thing I checked, definitely time to replace them. Yes, one broke as I was trying to get it to budge. They were fucking TIGHT and I just cannot comprehend why anyone would apply that much torque to a spark plug in an aluminum head. Idiots!
This had already happened on my previous Sportster, although that was partly my fault for not having the correct socket, but still, ya gotta wonder what's going on there. The workshop manual does say to apply some lubricant (not motor oil) so I'm taking extra precautions and using a thin coat of anti-seize to hopefully avoid this sort of problem in the future.
Anyway, I have a strong suspicion that these were the original spark plugs and that they were never replaced at all. If that's the case, that's one more lie the dealer told me when he assured me that the bike had been serviced. Whatever, I knew full well what I was getting into, I just wanted the damn motorcycle and I knew I was going to do things myself and do them properly.

And here are all four new spark plugs in their fire-breathing glory:

The gap is supposed to be .040", I checked them with a feeler gauge and only had to adjust one very slightly, not bad for being straight outta the box.

I want to keep an eye on these, I'll check them again soon to make sure it's not too lean in there. What I'll probably do at some point is take the carburetter off the bike, give it a thorough clean and inspect everything.

And finally we can move on to the valve clearance; except that this awesome machine has freaking hydraulic lifters, so you never have to worry about this, how cool is that?

What's in the box?

Just a little rant, if you'll indulge me, to point out the difference between "re-purposed" and "fake".

The old BSA toolbox I fitted on the Rising Star was an actual toolbox when originally fitted to a B 31 (probably), as you can see here:

But because all the usable space ended up being taken by what I like to, jokingly, refer to as the avionics, it can no longer truthfully be called a toolbox. That, I must confess, rubs me the wrong way. I hate things that are made to look like something else, just for the sake of appearances, and modern "retro" bikes are rife and rampant with that trend. Prime example, Triumph's more or less current Bonneville's sprocket cover, made to look like a separate gearbox, all for the sake of making it look like the old pre-unit engines...

That is fake. My toolbox is not. And while it is no longer an actual toolbox, it has been re-purposed to house (and hide from view) a large part of the electrics.

And while I'm at it, allow me to rant a little more. Modern-retro design.... come on! Look at this and tell me the new ones are even remotely as good as the originals:

Getting the chopper back on the road, part two...

The Rising Star received a helping hand from uncle Fester a while back, and now it's time to do some more.
I've been pestering the poor guy about this for ages, I think he's happy it's done just so I will shut up already!

Only kidding, as always uncle Fester is like the big brother I never had, and he was truly happy to help.

We got some round stock of 14mm in diameter and he expertly shaped it into a very classic and very classy sissy bar. I had seen him do this before, once for example when he made one for his dope Shovelhead chopper, so I knew the look I wanted for mine.

Here are some "work in progress" shots from the man himself:

Look at the countersunk bungs in the next two photos: this is the sort of detail that tells you someone is paying attention to what they're doing:

Now for a closer look at some of the details:

I think you'll agree that this thing is well made.

This poor bike had laid dormant for a very long time and, understandably, the battery was dead. I had a Motobatt, as I do on most of my bikes as they are very high quality, but knowing that I won't be using this bike all that much (realistically, for the foreseeable future) I have to say that the idea of forking out a pretty penny for a new one kinda bothered me. Instead, I was able to find a sealed Magneti Marelli for €29. Done.

Sure, it's not as high-spec as a Motobatt of the same size, but it's still an absorbed glass mat (AGM) type, and plenty good for a summer trip.

I also gave the carburetter a bit of a clean and found that the main jet particularly was all gunked up and almost totally blocked. Still, after a little while it started right up and settled into its familiar droning boom (I'm gonna need some earplugs).

For those of you who don't speak chopper, I get that the sissy bar as an object can be puzzling, and "the point of it" very hard to fathom.

To keep the language analogy going, it is one of those words that come up extremely frequently in the chopper vocabulary. And while you don't have to have one in order to call a bike a chopper (and the opposite is equally true by the way: bolting on a sissy bar to a motorcycle does not make it a chopper!) it can certainly be more than just a nice touch.

There are countless variations on the sissy bar theme: every height, bend, shape, finish (painted? chromed? raw?), if you can think of it, someone's already done it.
Some are padded and give the impression that this is really just an elaborate backrest for a pillion.
But besides from the dubious feasibility of carrying a pillion on a chopper (bad idea) let me cut this short and tell you what it is: the sissy bar is a luggage rack, simple as that. It is one of the best and safest ways to carry a surprising amount of luggage on a chopper, and it offers unsuspected versatility.
So yes, think of a sissy bar as a vertical luggage rack.

Allow me to demonstrate by showing you how all this stuff can fit on this tiny bike:

This and a few assorted sundries can all get rolled up relying on the same ancient technique that's been used in south-east Asia for a long time to make delicious "spring rolls":

In principle, nothing can fall out when it's all rolled up this way and strapped down tight, and things can stay dry, provided the outer sheet is waterproof. It can now be strapped down onto the sissy bar, and you're good to go:

Having the bike at his underground lair workshop, uncle Fester took another look at the gas tank mount and decided he didn't like it, so he went at it again, hard!
The original attachment point was finally chopped off, and a proper flat mounting point created a little further back so the tank can sit right. A very neat job overall, see for yourselves:

Once again, thank you so much my friend, this is great, really.

Finally, there is another detail that is very important: no chopper would be complete without a blanket, and this one is its own. A friend of mine brought it back from Nepal:

p.s. this modification is approved and endorsed by the German:

"Corsicaworld"

Corsica is one of those places that you don't really hear much about, until you enter a particular sphere (that of motorcycle summer holidays) and then it comes up A LOT.

There are endless articles, trip reports, tales, legends that all pretty much say the same things. Some of these things are true, others are more reflective of a person's fears and perceptions than anything else.

Still, when something is so popular and when the acclaim is so widespread (this applies to locations as it does to anything else, a motorcycle, a watch, a restaurant...) my instinct is to give it the bras d'honneur because obviously I'm better than everybody else.

But over the years I've come to understand that we all more or less equally suck, and that if something is popular, then it's not because the masses have figured out something I haven't, it's because it really is good, and people like it when things are good, easy and reliable: that bike really is faster and easier to ride, that restaurant really does do good food, the Rolex Submariner really is a cool watch.
And Corsica really is paradise on earth.

Back in 2011 three of us went over on three heroic Hondas, having no expectations of what we'd find. We didn't do anything special to prepare, Witold had done some advance recon on certain routes, but that was about the extent of it.
No special equipment and really no idea what to expect; because of that, it was a moment of pure discovery, frankly with fairly low expectations going in, precisely because of all the hubbub that we'd heard over the years.
It's fair to say that day after day that trip left us gobsmacked, and we knew we wanted to go back for more.
The following year we added two more friends and switched rides for 80% BMW, 20% Honda. There was a moment of quiet realisation that we had grown up, and that we now understood the appeal of the Bavarian airheads. Our second visit to the island was a resounding success, with higher mileage, new places and an even deeper appreciation of the experience.

Sure, there are beautiful beaches all around the island, but mountains and forests are what that place is really all about. Monte Cintu is listed as an "ultra-prominent peak", and there are plenty of high altitude spots that offer spectacular scenery and plenty of portals to other dimensions.
Ghisoni is apparently one such place, and we had been through Vergio during the Korsikatreffen. At 1477 meters, that had already seemed very impressive so I really would love to find out how high we can get, if you know what I mean.

We haven't been back all together since that time, and after one of those winter talks when you daydream about sunlight, long warm days and bikes in a campsite, we all conceded that maybe it was time we went back again.

So, with all the humility we can muster in the face of fate and its sense of irony, the plan is to go, the four of us, with our airheads and have a grandiose experience. Now, no sooner was I done typing that, that we already lost Gianluca, and that's too bad. The others are more or less ready and I hope they truly want to do this. I would like to think that I can go, but I probably won't be able to in the end. At this point I'm just putting this up because it would feel like a waste of time having written all this only to throw it away.

I don't know why I bother anymore. Anyone wanna buy some motorcycles?