BMW field test - Morocco (day 2)

By the end of day two we had to reach Boumalne-Dades, and we did so starting with what I later dubbed "the inappropriate offroad loop" (Witold says it was one of the hardest rides he ever did, and he was on the Yamaha...), essentially a 70km detour up some mountains on some very tricky single tracks that required concentration, balance, confidence and - above all - physical stamina. 

Most of us had water reservoirs into our backpacks, the kind that have a long tube that secures to a shoulder strap and with a bite valve. At 2lt in capacity and without having to fish out a bottle from a pack, this made it far more convenient to stay hydrated. We also thought that two liters would last us all day, yet we all seemed to get through most of it after just a few hours. I added electrolyte to mine every time I refilled and it made quite the difference. I also had some "trail mix", seeds, nuts and raisins that were easy to carry and gave us a much needed boost sometimes. I should have had far more than what I carried.

I made it, but only just. We all made it, but only because there were eight of us and luckily so: at one point towards the end, we came across a steep downward incline that ended in a 'v' shaped canal. Too steep to attack with momentum, and with no passable way out on the exiting slope because of a massive boulder that was right where the bikes should have gone. Had there been even just three or four of us we simply would have had to turn back and ride a good sixty kilometers back to the start. What we did instead was to crawl down, dismount, then try to walk alongside the bike while powering it up the opposite slope, while as many other people as possible lined up on either side of the bike and heaved and hauled it up. It was a serious strain after just two bikes, nevermind eight, especially the big heavy ones. We were already tired and suffering the heat... this all but ended us.

I am still glad I did it because it was a resounding showcase of what this BMW is truly capable. Climbing up those relatively steep rocky slopes quickly became one of the more satisfying scenarios because it allows you to get to places that would be inaccessible to a four-wheeler and to street bikes. While the more specialized enduro bikes were racing up like mountain goats, the GS was simply riding purposefully up to the top, because it has plenty of motor to make it. Some of the downhill descents seemed like they would have been hazardous but somehow weren't: slowly and gently on the brakes, with a sound strategy to navigate over rocks and drops, the bike just plowed on.

At one point we reached an almost dry river bed, it must be a formidable sight when the water flows in winter, as it takes up the entirety of the valley floor and must be easily in excess of 50 meters in width.

It made for a deceptively tough crossing because the ground was essentially stacked, smooth pebbles that offered no grip but every intention to trip you over. No firm ground but plenty hard if you fell. We quickly aimed for the deepest point where a little bit of water did still flow, and followed that instead as it made for an easier "surface" than the stones. 

We must have encountered almost every possible type of surface on that infernal loop, from hard-packed dirt to sand, from loose rocks to twigs and leaves. Other than snow and ice, this thing had it all.

When we reached that canal where we had to dismount and pull the bikes up, we even tried to dislodge the boulder first but it didn't even budge. Had we had some rope and pulleys it would have made things a lot easier...

The remainder of our itinerary was properly offroad and at altitude; we crossed a few easy streams and rode across dusty plateaus surrounded by vast empty spaces and views over valley floors thousands of feet below.

I don't remember where we slept that night but I think I went to sleep as soon as I could.