Fitting the cylinder block.

I was just about to fit all the various studs and bolts for the new cylinders when I thought it might be interesting, if not necessarily useful, to point out where each part goes.

Disclaimer: I think this is correct, but of course I could be wrong, so if in doubt contact the manufacturer.

Anyway, as you'll see the fixing kit that comes with the cylinder block is very comprehensive and there's really no mistaking where everything goes.
First of all, you have to remove all the crankcase studs except for the three at the front: since the mounting flange on the new cylinders is the same as the old, there would be no point changing the hardware.
This is also a good time to really get that crankcase flange nice and clean, by the way.

Now for the rest of the fasteners:
ß The two stepped studs (3/8"unc on one end, and 5/16"unf on the other) go at the very rear of the cylinders/crankcase and come with their 12-point locknuts (you'll notice that they're slightly ovalised to provide resistance);
ß The four long Allen bolts go at the sides of the barrels, securing the cylinder block to the crankcase. Note that no washers are provided here, as only some oil under the bolt heads and on the threads is required (on a standard 850 cylinder you would use washer 016213);
ß The three large dark studs go on the underside of the head, two at the front, one at the rear, and are secured with the exotic 12-point nuts. These are probably made of Unobtanium;
ß The two smallest studs with conventional nyloc nuts are threaded into the cylinder block, in front of the pushrod tunnels;
ß The four shorter Allen bolts go at the sides of the head, securing it to the cylinders. ; and
ß Finally, the single dark Allen bolt is the number 1 in the tightening sequence and secures the center-most point of the head to the cylinder block.

Incidentally, the two really big holes are for the pistons... just sayin'.