The devil is in the details.

I'm at the stage where I'm ready to refit the cylinder head, bolt everything back on (carbs, head-steady, etc.) and see if the engine will work. BUT, before I can do that, I need to go over a few bolts with a torque wrench, and to do that, I needed a 5/16 insert. And finding anything non-metric, in a backwards metric village like Rome means your fun grinds to a disappointing halt real fast. "Special order" this, "not available that..." so disappointing. Unexpectedly though, I found just what I was looking for at a small hardware store operated by a bunch of young guys who wrench on their own dirt bikes and help each other out. Definitely an interesting find, and I'll be happy to support a local independent shop in the future.